Italy - a family friendly destination
Italy once more confirmed its reputation as the perfect destination for exploring and enjoying life (Mediterranean folks simply know how to do it). In July 2023 we have finally tried it also as family friendly destination, as, in addition to all the natural and cultural landmarks and attractions, it also spoiled us with flavours that are tailor-made for kids (and their taste buds) – gelato, pizza, pasta, yum! Our family road trip was a true culinary journey intertwined with the exploration of beautiful cities, historical monuments, and natural wonders. We set out with one main goal: to explore the stunning Tuscany region, which is known for its rolling hills, charming medieval towns, world-class art, and, of course, the vino. However, we did not have any fixed plans. We decided to go with the flow, booking our campsites and apartments day by day, giving us the ultimate flexibility.
This semi-planned, wanderlust-fueled adventure turned out to be a blessing. We ended up not only soaking in the beauty of Tuscany’s mainland but also wandering far and wide from Venice to Cinque Terre, Pisa, and even taking a surprise detour to the sun-soaked Tuscan island of Elba (thanks to a scorching heatwave at mainland). With no fixed itinerary, we found ourselves exploring hidden gems, encountering magical landscapes, and – naturally – stuffing ourselves with pizza and gelato at every stop. Here is a little recap of our Giro di Italia/Tuscan escapade, and beyond, full of family fun, travel misadventures, and a lot of gelato.
Tuscany is that dreamy region of Italy that everyone imagines when they think of charming countryside landscapes with hay bales and cypress trees, quaint medieval villages, and rolling vineyards stretching for miles. If you have ever wanted to feel like you have stepped into a Renaissance painting, Tuscany is the place to do it. With its hilltop towns, vast olive groves, and vineyards producing some of the world’s finest wines, Tuscany’s got a little bit of everything. Postcard-perfect towns are full of history and beauty. In addition, Tuscany’s fantastic food scene means that there is a never-ending parade of delicious bites to keep the children (and adults) happy – think pasta, pizza, and of course, gelato!
Venice
Since we were travelling by car from our hometown in Slovenia (yes, we are lucky to be Italian neighbors!), Venice was on our way to the Tuscany and it would be a sin not to stop there. We (the parents) had visited Venice several times before, and one unforgettable night, we even ended up sleeping at the Santa Lucia train station, surrounded by other backpacking students. I still vividly remember the incessant, annoying sound of the souvenir vending machine – the one where you insert a coin and it spits out some kind of soldier-themed necklace or trinket. Picture this: a strange, repetitive shooting noise echoing through the night. Not exactly, the most restful sleep, but hey, that is a story for another time!
As said, our first stop was Venice. The city of canals charmed us all. For families, Venice is a magical place to visit. Children love taking a Vaporetto (waterbus) down the Grand Canal, watching the gondolas glide by, and exploring the many narrow streets. A visit to Piazza San Marco is a must, where children can marvel at the pigeons. Ours, of course, were chasing them all across Venice and wanted to feed them their entire lunch. We spent few hours in Venice and this time we did not visit St. Mark’s Basilica or Museo di Storia Naturale (Natural History Museum), especially the latter would be probably an interesting spot for the next family visit. However, we did take time to admire the various Venetian masks in local shops and decided that one day we would return during their famous carnival.
After Venice, we headed south towards Tuscany and settled for the night in a small campsite in Marina di Grosetto. The heat was becoming unbearable, so we quickly revised our plans and decided to head back north the very next day, aiming for Piombino to catch a ferry to Elba, hoping for some sea breeze and more bearable temperatures. On the way, we made a quick stop in the charming little town of Castiglione della Pescaia. Little did we know, this charming town would later send us some “greetings” from the Italian police, as we had mistakenly driven a few meters into a residential-only area. Oops! However, I would still say the town was worth it. We took a leisurely stroll uphill – luckily, we did it in the morning, though it was still too hot to stick around for long. Therefore, we cooled off with some giant gelatos, which, of course, ended with us all covered in sticky, sweet goodness (because, let’s be honest, Italian gelato always melts faster than you can eat it, especially in that heat!).
Elba island
As already mentioned, initially Elba Island was not part of our travel plan, but a sudden heatwave hit the mainland, with temperatures soaring above 40°C (104°F), making it almost unbearable. Elba, however, had temperatures that were about 10°C (18°F) cooler, thanks to the sea breeze, which made it the perfect place to escape the heat. It turned out to be one of the best surprises of our trip! We stayed in a wonderful campsite Valle di Santa Maria in Lacona, surrounded by plenty of natural and artificial shade, ensuring that our tent was in the shade all day long. This made our camping experience much more comfortable, and the children could relax without the intense heat. The beautiful sandy beach was literally 20 meters away from our tent and this was our base for the next three nights. Elba Island itself was stunning, with crystal-clear waters and beautiful beaches. One of the highlights was the Pomonte beach with the Elviscot Shipwreck, which lies submerged just offshore. The Elviscot was a British freighter that sank in 1972 after encountering difficulties during a storm. The wreckage of the ship now rests on the seafloor, just a few meters from the shore, making it an accessible and popular spot for divers and snorkelers. The wreck is both haunting and beautiful, and on calm days, you can even catch a glimpse of it from a rented pedal boat, making an early visit ideal. Unfortunately, we were not so lucky. The beach was crowded, and all the pedal boats were booked for hours in advance. By the time we made it, the sea had turned much rougher. However, we rented sea goggles and managed to get a closer look. It was an incredibly intimidating experience, especially as we felt so small floating above the enormous wreck—especially since we do not have much snorkelling experience. The ship, now overtaken by marine life, serves as a thriving home for countless fish and sea creatures. We also visited Capoliveri, a charming medieval town perched on top of a hill, offering stunning views and narrow, winding streets. Then there was Portoferraio, a lovely port town with a beautiful old town center and Napoleon’s residence – honestly, we would not mind being exiled there! We also tried to visit Porto Azzurro for an evening stroll, but unfortunately, we could not find any free parking. It seemed like many people had escaped to Elba to cool off from the heat during those days. Elba was truly a wonderful detour, and we did not regret our decision for a second.
Saturnia Hot Springs
After Elba escapade, we headed towards the Tuff towns. You really have to visit them, before they disappear! On our way, we stopped and soaked in the natural beauty of Saturnia. The hot springs were beautiful, a true wonder in the middle of the parched, summer burned grass of Tuscany, creating a surreal contrast between the dry landscape and the stunning, turquoise pools. However, due to the extreme heat of the air – temperatures were still over 40°C during our visit – the water did not feel as warm as we had expected. While it was not cold enough to provide a cool, refreshing dip, it still felt pleasantly soothing, offering just the right balance of warmth. It was an experience unlike any other, surrounded by the beauty of the Tuscan countryside and the relaxing atmosphere of the springs. Luckily, there was one part in shade, so children played there for a while before we continued our way towards magical Pitigliano (seriously, I fell in love with this town).
Pitigliano and the Tuff towns
As we approached Pitigliano by road and saw it perched on the hill, its grandeur took our breath away—our mouths were wide open in awe!
A medieval hill town known for its stunning stone architecture and views of the surrounding countryside was our base for the following days. Here we booked our stay through booking.com, due to the heat and the fact that there were no camping sites anywhere near the tuff towns of Pitigliano, Sorano, and Sovana which we wanted to explore. There is something truly magical in these towns – we all agreed it is an obligatory stop while travelling to Tuscany. We also took time and explored some parts of the mysterious Via Cave, network of paths built by Etruscans. The purpose of these ancient trenches remains unclear – some believe they were once used for religious rituals, while others think they were part of defence system.
While in Pitigliano, our youngest unfortunately got a fever, which put a bit of a damper on the day. However, despite Pitigliano’s ancient charm, where it feels like you have stepped into the Middle Ages, we discovered that the newer part of town had shops and pharmacies. We were able to quickly find paracetamol, and by the next day, our little one was feeling much better – probably due to teething.
Montepulciano
Heading north, we stopped in Montepulciano, a medieval town famous for its not only stunning views and delicious wine but also as the filming location for the Twilight Saga: New Moon! For Twilight fans, it is exciting to walk the streets where Bella and Edward shared romantic moments. The main square, Piazza Grande, is a great place to sit, relax, and people-watch. We enjoyed delicious lunch and easy strolling through the narrow streets. And eating more gelato, of course.
Pisa
On our way to Pisa we wanted to stop in San Gimignano, known for its iconic skyline of medieval towers that rise dramatically above the surrounding landscape. Often called the “Manhattan of the Middle Ages,” there were actually many more towers which served as homes to better situated families. Yet, it was impossible, since there were, believe it or not, no parking slots, again. So we continued towards Pisa to see the famous Leaning Tower. It is a must-see for children, and we had some funny moments trying to take the classic “holding up the tower” photos. The Piazza dei Miracoli also has beautiful green lawns where children can run around, and the Pisa Cathedral and Baptistery are wonderful already on the outside so we did not enter this time.
Cinque Terre
Cinque Terre are stunning and magical, with its colourful villages perched along dramatic cliffs and the sparkling Mediterranean below. However, as we visited in July, it was incredibly crowded, which made the experience a bit more challenging. We bought a daily family train ticket and decided to visit all five villages (Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore), which was a great way to explore the area. The train stations, though, packed with tourists, and the situation got a bit tense when we tried to go off the train. People were trying to enter the train before we had even stepped off, and we were actually pushed back onto the train! It was a bit overwhelming, especially since our oldest son managed to get out, but the rest of us got caught in the crowd. It was awful! Thankfully, there were station employees who immediately noticed our child and started yelling “bambino, bambino, di chi è il bambino?” and scolding some of the hasty tourists for their rush. It was a bit chaotic, but it was also reassuring to see that the station staff cared about the safety of children in such crowded conditions. Despite the train station madness, Cinque Terre is truly a must-see, with its dramatic landscapes, delicious seafood, and breathtaking views, though it is best to visit in the off-season if you are looking to avoid the crowds. You can actually walk between the villages. There are 120 kms of trails across National Park, so there is an entrance fee to pay. It would be too difficult for children to walk, so we will save it for our next visit. The most breathtaking views of the picturesque houses are likely from the sea, so a boat ride could be a beautiful and less crowded alternative.
Lake Garda and Sirmione
We wanted to complete our Italy road trip with hike in Dolomites, but the weather did not cooperate. Consequentially, we decided to finish our trip at Lago di Garda, where we stayed in the charming town of Soiano del Lago. We checked the weather forecast and it was not a good idea to camp that night. The forecast was correct, there was a massive hailstorm during the night. We were very happy with our booking decision, not only because the breakfast was delicious, but also because our car was completely intact, unlike some others we saw that were totally destroyed (there was a record hail ice piece that night near the area where we stayed). It was a truly harrowing sight – cars being towed away by recovery trucks, with some even heading all the way towards our home country, Slovenia. We wanted to visit Gardaland’s Aquarium, but the park was closed due to the hailstorm damage and repair work. Therefore, we spent the rest of our time in Sirmione enjoying the lakeside views and the local gelato. The Scaligero Castle in Sirmione is a great spot to explore with kids, offering sweeping views over the lake and a taste of medieval history. There are also boat tours around the lake, where families can relax and take in the beautiful scenery.
What a road trip! From stunning beaches and ancient ruins to picturesque towns and thermal springs, Italy truly has something for every family. The memories we made exploring this beautiful country with our children will last a lifetime, and we cannot wait for our next adventure in Italy!
